What a booth price card actually is
A price card is among the smallest pieces of a booth's signage, and one of the easiest to leave off. It sits directly on or beside an item and states two facts: what it is, if that isn't obvious from looking at it, and what it costs. That's the whole job. Everything else on a table — the table-header sign, the payment-methods card, the custom-order slip — exists to answer questions a shopper will ask. A price card exists to answer the one a shopper is least likely to raise: asking a stranger "how much?" costs a browser something socially, and setting the item back down costs them nothing at all.
A price card is not the same thing as booth rent — that's the chair fee a hairstylist or barber pays a salon to work there. The two terms share the word "booth" and nothing else.
Tented vs. flat, and when each one wins
There are two working shapes, and a table usually wants both:
- Flat cards lie directly on the table. They take almost no space, which makes them the right fit for a shelf or basket of small items priced the same or nearly the same — a row of them in front of a stack of similar pieces reads cleanly without eating the display.
- Tented cards fold into a small standing triangle, so they read from a few feet back and from an angle, not just straight down. That makes them the better choice for a featured piece, the front edge of a shelf, or anywhere you want the price visible before a shopper has picked the item up.
A tented card has a second advantage a flat card can't offer: a back face. Because a tent card folds, the inside of the fold — the panel that faces away from the customer, toward you — can carry a note only you'll ever see: what the piece cost you to make, the count you restock it at, or a line you meant to say when someone picks it up. Printed upside down on the flat sheet, it lands right-side-up the moment the card is folded and standing. The customer only ever sees the front.
Standard sizes, and why a shared trim size matters
There's no single body that sets a required price-card size, but the practical reasoning is the same wherever you land on one: a card small enough to sit beside a single item without dominating it, and large enough to read at arm's length. What matters more than the exact dimensions is consistency across the table — one card trimmed at a slightly different size than its neighbor, or a card cut freehand beside one cut with a straightedge, reads as unfinished even when the pricing behind it is careful.
The reason a shared trim size matters goes beyond how it looks side by side, too. If every card on the table — small flat cards, small tent cards, and a larger featured-piece tent card — is a whole-number multiple of the same base cell, the cut lines line up across every sheet you print. That means a table's worth of cards can be printed as one batch and cut in a single pass along shared lines, rather than measured and cut one size, and one sheet, at a time the night before a market.
Printing at actual size, and why "fit to page" is the trap
A price card is designed to an exact trim size on paper, but many consumer print dialogs offer a "fit to page" or "shrink to fit" setting, which rescales the PDF to fill whatever paper is loaded in the tray. Nothing on screen necessarily announces that it happened — the card just comes out a few percent smaller or larger than it was drawn, which is invisible until you try to fit a "3.5 x 2 in" card against a ruler, or line two differently-scaled sheets up against each other.
The fix costs one measurement. Print with scaling set to 100% / actual size (not "fit" or "shrink to fit"), and if the sheet carries a printed calibration line — a rule marked at, say, 100 mm or 4 in — hold a tape measure against it before you cut anything. A rule that reads short or long tells you the print job scaled the page, and you can fix the printer setting and reprint before the scissors come out, not after.
The common mistakes
- No price at all. The quietest way to lose a sale on a booth table — every browser who can't see a price has to choose between asking and walking, and only one of those is effortless.
- A price a shopper has to ask for. Functionally the same problem as no price, just with an extra, more socially awkward step in front of it.
- Cards in mismatched sizes. A table of hand-cut, differently-sized scraps reads as an afterthought, even when the craftsmanship on the table is not.
- Ink that dies the night before. A color cartridge running dry at 11 p.m. is a cheap thing to plan for and an expensive thing to improvise around — worth having a low-ink or plain-paper fallback ready before the night you need it, not during it.
Try the free version first
The free Booth Price-Card Set carries three finished price-card sizes — a small flat card, a small tent card, and a larger tent card for a featured piece — each shown filled in for an invented maker and then blank and ready to print and cut, with the same printed calibration rule so a mis-scaled print is caught before it reaches your scissors. It's free and ungated, no email required.
For the rest of a table's signage — the multi-buy offer sign, payment and scan-to-pay cards, an allergen-and-ingredients card, a wholesale card, custom-order slip, and the table-header poster, all imposed on the same shared cut-and-fold grid alongside a fillable calculator that works out the number that belongs on the offer sign — see the Craft-Fair & Market Booth Signage, Price-Card & Table Kit. For the rest of the market-table side of the catalog, see templates for craft sellers.
Templates that implement this
A kit built for the whole table, not one card
1 template
Every price card, offer sign, and maker-side back imposed on one shared cut-and-fold grid, plus a fillable calculator for the multi-buy price on the offer sign.
Frequently asked questions
- What is a booth price card?
- A booth price card is a small printed card set on a craft-fair or farmers-market table beside an item, showing what it is and what it costs. It answers the two questions a shopper is least likely to ask out loud — a browser who has to hunt for a price, or ask a stranger for one, has been handed an easy reason to walk to the next table instead.
- Tented or flat — which price card should I use?
- Decide by where the shopper's eyes are when they need the number. If they are already leaning over a shelf or basket and looking down, a flat card is enough and costs you no display space. If you want the price read before they reach the table — a featured piece, a shelf edge, anything you would rather they did not have to pick up — it needs the height a tent card's fold gives it. When in doubt, tent it: a tented card is still readable from directly above, and a flat one is not readable from anywhere else.
- What goes on a price card, and what stays off it?
- The customer-facing side carries only what a shopper needs: what the piece is (if that isn't obvious) and the price. Resist adding your logo, a care paragraph, or your whole story — each extra line costs the price a little legibility at a glance, and there are other pieces on a table built to carry those. A tented card can also carry a maker-only back, printed upside down on the sheet so it reads right-side up once the card is folded and standing. That side faces the back of the table, away from the customer.
- What size should a booth price card be?
- There's no single mandated size, but picking one trim size and holding it across an entire table is what makes signage read as a set instead of a pile of scraps. A common approach is a small card sized for a single item's price and a larger tented card for a featured piece, both cut from the same underlying grid so the trim lines match and a whole table's cards can be cut in one pass rather than one size at a time.
- Why does "print at 100%" matter for a price card?
- Because scale is the one mistake you cannot fix after the scissors. A rescaled sheet still looks correct on screen and still cuts cleanly — you only discover it when the card sits beside one printed at true size, or fails to fit a stand you already bought. Trimmed cards cannot be un-trimmed, so it is worth proving the scale before the cut rather than after.
- Do I need a price card for every item, or one per group?
- One card per item is right where the prices differ, where a piece is one-of-a-kind, or where the card is doing more than carrying a number — a title, a material, a size. One card per group works when a shelf or basket holds pieces at a single price, and it keeps a crowded table from turning into a field of cards. The failure mode to avoid is a grouped card sitting over stock that is no longer all one price, because a shopper who reads a number and then finds a different one at the till has been misled rather than informed.